A good sleeping pad is imperative
for a good night’s rest. Besides the obvious cushioning,
a sleeping pad insulates you from conductive heat loss
due to your body weight smashing the sleeping bags insulation.
That said, in the spirit of keeping
a light boat while maintaining a degree of comfort,
the sleeping pad has been the most challenging piece
of self-support gear for me. Having tried various pads
as well as making my own, there seems to be no such
beast that is both light and comfortable yet compact,
convenient and warm too...at least in the truest sense
of these terms. However, the less persnickety individual
will probably find content with a simple closed cell
foam or self-inflating pad, or, a combination of those.
Closed cell foam
These pads are just that, closed
cell foam. No coverings or any other bells and whistles.
They are the lightest, least expensive and most trouble
free. They are on the bulky side though and without
modifications, can take up a lot of room in your boat.
The lightest of these foams don't have the best of memory
retention either. In other words, over time, the pad
won't fully rebound and you may notice a small loss
of cushion and warmth.
Pads with ridges or an egg crate
like pattern offer the most comfort. Cascade
Designs Z-Lite and RidgeRest as well as the Gossamer
Gear NightLight fall in to this catagory. Of these,
the NightLight has the best ratio between comfort, weight,
price and size.
Self-inflating
These pads consist of open cell foam
encased in coated nylon. Once you open the valve, they
self-inflate. If you desire more firmness, you blow
in more air. Not only are these pads adjustable, they
are more compact and comfortable than closed cell. They
are, however, heavier and require more attention. If
tossed around willy-nilly like a closed cell foam pad,
it might spring a leak leaving you with little cushion
or insulation. A patch kit is advisable.
The most recognizable name in the
self-inflating market is the Therm-a-Rest by Cascade
Designs. Lesser known but more innovative in design
are the various offerings from Pacific
Outdoor Equipment, a relatively newcomer to the
market. Bozeman
Mountain Works also sells a torso sized pad that
gets high praise from hard-core backpackers. More on
these immediately below.
Self-inflating
& closed cell foam pad combos
To date, the best compromise I have
come up with for myself has been a 3/8" thick x
60” long closed cell foam pad over a short
torso length self-inflater. The short self-inflating
pad provides cushion and insulation where it is needed
most and the closed cell pad adds to that while sufficiently
comforting the less vulnerable lower body. When cut
in half (see "closed cell foam
sleeping pad modifications" below), the
bulk of the closed cell foam pad becomes manageable
and the little self-inflater takes up no more space
than a Nalgene bottle. Additionally, set-up is easy
and if the self-inflater springs a leak, the closed
cell pad will still provide some cushion and insulation.
Perhaps best of all is the fact that not only is this
system more comfortable than the popular ¾ length
self-inflating pad, it can be just as light if not lighter.
Combined, my Pacific Outdoor
Equipment Über Lite & Coleman Rest Easy Pad
tips the scales at only 11oz (see photo
to the right). That's
3 oz less than the lightest and ever popular ¾
length Therm-a-Rest.
Torso sized self-inflating pads:
General tips
- If your closed cell pad won’t
fit in the main drybags, place it anywhere in the
boat. Doesn’t matter if it gets wet. They dry
quick. And if yours doesn't, just place it under the
shelter so your sleeping bag doesn’t get wet.
It'll also double as protection for your shelter floor.
To make one of these pads fit in your boat better,
see Closed cell foam sleeping
pad modifications below.
- Use nature
for extra insulation and cushion by placing moss,
leaves, grass or rushs' under the shelter. The hollowness
of scouring and horsetail rush gives
them the most cushion and insulation. Use what ever
is availble on the ground though. Just remember that
the dryer it is, the warmer it'll be. Green = moisture
= warmth robber.
- Due to thier comfort and oft
time low cost, air mattresses are often thought to
be the ticket to a good nights rest. However, air
mats are convective making them suitable only for
hot nights. Yes, air insulates but only when
comprised of many small pockets. This is
why "insulation" is installed between the
studs in a building; to replace a single large air
space with many small air pockets.
- Do not use open cell foam only.
Not only will open cell eat up space in your boat,
it’ll suck up water like the sponge material
it is.
- A neoprene wetsuit or pants can
be used in conjunction with your pad for additional
cushion/insulation or as a stand alone pad. Again,
if wet, simply place under your shelter and cover
with nature.
- To save weight and bulk, I used
to use a 3/4 length pad, which is around 48"
long, and use stuff sacks, extra clothes or nature
under my legs (nature goes under the
shelter; sacks and clothes inside).
 |
 |
| Imagine
an insulating mattress that is more comfortable
than two Therm-a-Rests together yet weighs less
than one and only costs $15. This is it! The bottom
is an air mattress (A) comprised of party balloons
inside synthetic silk. This serves as the cushion.
The upper (the side you sleep on) is a closed cell
foam pad (B) which acts as additional cushion as
well as the insulation. |
 |
B
Coleman Rest Easy Pad cut to 20"x59"
then in half
C dollar store balloon pump
D 24 260Q party balloons (2 nights
+ spares)
E syn silk balloon encasement;
10 sleeves; 20"x48"
F sil-nylon stuff sack
Total weight = 10oz |
At camp, the balloons are
pumped up and slid in to their encasement (E)(process
shown in upper right pic). This completes
the air mattress (A). The two mats (B) are then
attached (see closed cell sleeping
pad modifications below) and slid under
the two air mattress elastic retention straps
(G).
The air mattress provides
the cushion where it's needed most:
shoulder to hips. My lower legs hang off the air
mattress but are sufficiently cushioned and insulated
with the foam pad (B). My head is supported by
a nature pillow (see photo at
bottom of page ).
Though there is not a sleeping
pad in production offering such a favorable comfort/weight
ratio, this system takes an effort to set up (about
10 minutes). And while more durable than
one would think, there seems to be no quality
control with these balloons. Some will pop for
no reason. Imagine a balloon popping near your
head at 3 am (I average 1/night).
That aside, the good balloons (unfortunately,
there's no way to tell the good from the bad)
will bear my 165 pounds and active sleeping characteristics
fine...if the ground is prepared perfectly. In
that sense, using this mattress very much reminds
me of the following quote by Charles Lindsey:
"Bomb-proof is a solution for carelessness
while lightweight is a reward for carefulness"
If this mattress sounds like
your thing, it's not difficult to make. Just take
a 4'x4' piece of synthetic silk, fold it over
and sew ten sleeves in it (I was
experimenting w/ different silks hence the black
& white colors). Then, sew two 3/8"
wide elastic straps (G) on and modify a closed
cell foam pad as outlined below. The balloons
and pumps are easy to find and making a bag to
stow all this in is one of the easiest sewing
projects there is (though sil-nylon
is tricky to work with due to its slipperyness).
For tips on sewing, materials, etc, click here. |
 |
 |
| ....oh,
and the balloons serve as morning entertainment
for your buddies. |
| Closed
cell foam sleeping pad modifications |
|
|
Modifiying
a closed cell pad so that it's easier to pack
is simple: cut it in half. Insert
each half in to each dry bag then pack the rest
of your gear inside. The pad adds protection to
your gear whilst being crammed in the stern. If
the pad won't fit inside your drybags, put each
half anywhere in the boat...unrolled conforming
to the shape of your kayak (I have even used them
as extra thigh/knee cushion). The bluish colored
pad in the left photo is a
Coleman Rest Easy Pad used in my experimental
mattress above. The gray pad is a Gossamer Gear
Nightlight cut down to 19.5"x46".
There are two
ways of reattaching the two halfs at camp:
(A) velcro which is attached to the foam with
adhesive or (B) tying/stiching with string. The
velcro is by far the more convenient and trouble-free
method. However, (B) makes for a faster mod and
will hold for several trips if the holes are far
enough from the edge and you handle the pad with
some care. In the photo on the right, (C) is velcro
that attaches the pad to the underside of my bivy
floor. Sleeping pad & shelter floor protection
in one. Double duty! |
What about pillows?
There are several things you can do here besides taking
the special Winnie the Pooh "camp pillow":
 |
| Stuffing
grass in a sleeping bag stuff sack for a nature
pillow. |
- Place your spray skirt or wetsuit
inside the sleeping bag stuff sack then under your
shelter if they are wet.
- Use your pfd. If wet, place under
your shelter floor.
- Build up a mound of leaves, rush,
grass and/or moss under the shelter floor or place
it inside your sleeping bag stuff sack. I have come
to prefer dried grass in a sack. It's quieter than
leaves and warmer than some thing that's green. If
you don't like the feeling of nylon against your face,
place the sack inside extra clothing if it's available.
Works great,
saves weight.
12.14.07 |