paddling
apparel
While wearing a drytop
and shorts with fleece might be adequate for low elevation
warm-water summer trips, this combo could prove to be
miserable or worse at other times and or locations.
Regardless of how dry your boat/skirt is, if you have
to get out of your boat to scout/portage, your lower
half will eventually get wet. Even in nice weather,
it doesn’t take much of this to get chilled. Now,
throw some cool temperatures in, a breeze, rain or little
Idaho summer snowstorm and the situation can get miserable
in a hurry. More critical than your immediate comfort
though is if you or one of your friends runs into trouble.
At that point, you are in an entirely different ball
game.
Erring on the safe side
is always a good habit to get into but especially
true in remote locations. Think of the worst
case scenario then plan for it. A swim is
one thing but what if you were pinned with a popped
skirt, had a boat full of cold water and had to wait
for assistance? What if you had to stand waist or
chest deep for some time holding your friend’s
head above water? Ultimately, you want to ask yourself
if your clothing is going to keep you from getting
hypothermic in long submersions. In
questionable air and water temps, there is
absolutely no question about it. The best thing to
be wearing is a one-piece drysuit.
Benefits of
a drysuit
Besides the safety factors and upped
personal comfort level, there's another benefit to wearing
a drysuit while self-supporting: you
will have dry clothes on when you get to camp. Your
paddling and camp clothes can be one and the same. Double
duty! This means less clothing you will have to carry
in your boat, which equates to saved weight and less
bulk.
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| Getting
warm inside that suit? No problem.
Roll, kneel or have lunch in the water. For me,
it's easier to cool off than warm up. I gladly
don my suit on everything but the hottest of summer
trips. |
Shopping for
a drysuit
Many people shy away from drysuits
because of the expense involved and the inconveniences
of urinating. However, many shops have them on their
year-end closeout sales (I have seen
them up to 40% off) and even at full retail,
there are some reasonably priced suits available now.
And every major manufacturer has offerings with relief
zippers.
- consider a
relief zipper mandatory.
Without, one tends to drink less because of the
hassle of urinating and as a result, becomes dehydrated.
Dehydration offers its own set of problems including,
but not limited to, shaky paddling performance and
chills...countering the reason you were getting
a suit in the first place: safety and comfort.
- built-in
socks aren't necessary but they are worth every
penny plus some. They keep your feet dryer and warmer;
makes the suit easier to don and doff; and don't
constrict your blood flow.
- a suit
made with breathable material will extend its range
of comfort
With a price tag ranging
from around $500 to nearly $1000, a drysuit with all
the above features will be your most expensive peice
of gear...but, invaluable if you are serious
about your comfort and safety. In many
cases, a drysuit can easily be the difference between
comfort and misery. In some cases, a drysuit could be
the difference between surviving or not.
Absolutely
can not afford a drysuit? An option that may
be worth looking in to is a pair of bibs that mate to
your drytop. Like true drysuits, bibs come in the standard
nylon or breathable materials and with or without built-in
socks and relief zippers. Sealing methods vary from
neoprene body tubes to rolling the drytops skirt tunnel
to the tunnel on the bibs.
The concept is good.
However, submersion dryness varies and as such, bibs
should not be considered as reliable as a true drysuit.
And, because of the extra material around the mid section,
bibs are not nearly as comfortable. Lastly, without
a relief zipper, urinating will be even more of a hassle
than it is with a zipperless drysuit.
Neoprene is
another option to help ward off hypothermia
in less severe environments...though is does not offer
the same level of protection or any where near the comfort
of a drysuit. And neoprene takes so long to dry, you'll
likely be putting it on damp or wet the next day. Not
a pleasant thought if you wake up to snow! You'll also
have to pack camp clothes in your drybags (meaning
extra weight & bulk) as opposed to already
having them on under a drysuit. Neoprene is however,
by far the least expensive and most trouble-free option.
Neoprene can also be used in conjunction with your sleeping
pad or as a stand-alone pad (placed
under the shelter, if damp, so sleeping bag stays dry).
What about
dry pants? Ease of use and low prices have
made pants with latex gaskets on the ankles popular.
However, I don’t consider these “dry pants”
any kind of substitue to a drysuit. Their ability to
keep water out in strong hydraulics and or long submersions
is questionable. And if enough water got past the waist
seal and in to the pant legs, your ability to effectively
swim could be severely comprimised. There is at least
one documented case of this contributing to a drowning.
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| Getting
a lace caught on the brake pedal at a notoriously
dangerous intersection caused me to ponder the
pontential ramifications of shoe laces in kayaking.
The Quickfit lace system on these Salomon trail
runners tucks cleanly in to the tongue & is
secure. Though not the best on wet rocks, I prefer
the fit, comfort & versatileness of these
shoes over that of any kayak specific shoes I
have found. |
Shoes
Shoes are one of the most often over
looked pieces of equipment in kayaking. For self-support,
a solid pair is an absolute must and while it may seem
like common sense, so is wearing them in the kayak.
Shoes are worthless if they’re in a boat floating
down stream without the paddler.
Constantly be asking
yourself "what if". Imagine
having to hike out. It is one thing to hike a few miles
out of an urban area creek but a whole other animal
to hike 15, 30 or more miles out of a trailless wilderness
canyon. You are in dire straights without shoes! Good
shoes will also allow quicker reaction times in emergencies.
Wear the most secure,
comfortable and supportive pair of shoes that will fit
in your boat... and think twice about wearing sandals.
Sandals do little to protect your feet when walking
through brush and there has been at least one documented
case of them causing fatal foot entrapment in the river
bed. They can catch on boat outfitting too as proven
by a friend of mine during a wet exit. His sandal got
caught under the front edge of his kayak's seat breaking
a bone in his foot in the process.
Additional
tips
-
On trips that I’m wavering on the need for
a helmet liner, I’ll
leave
it home and wear a left over food bag if need be
(bags you put bulk foods in
work well). The plastic has
little insulative power but keeps you warm by preventing
evaporative cooling...and adding a barrier between
you and the wind and splashes. YO! You'll look
like a grocery store gangsta lacking bling but really...why
would you care as long as it works? Along
the same lines, these type of bags can be used on
your feet as a VBL
while sleeping (held on w/ rubberbands
at ankles) and, in emergencies, can be used
as pogies of sorts. Zip-locks or what ever, any
kind of plastic bag will work. Be resourceful,
think multi-use and save weight without sacrificing
comfort. I have used all these methods
with excellent success.
camp
apparel
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| At camp: wet
paddling shoes over Gore-Tex socks over dry fleece
socks. These Gore-Tex socks were tall and loose
on top so I cut them down & added a bungee cord
closure to keep debris out. |
Footwear
I used to pack neoprene socks reinforced
with Aqua Seal on the soles for warm camp wear. This
worked out pretty nice but realized a few ounces could
be saved by going another route. If I’m wearing
my drysuit, which has built-in socks, I’ll just
pack a pair of Gore-Tex socks in my drybags and call
it good. Once at camp, I'll take my drysuit off, slip
the Gore-Tex socks over the dry socks I was just wearing
inside my drysuit then put my paddling shoes back on.
With the Gore-Tex socks,
it doesn’t matter if the shoes are soaked. My
feet stay dry. This method leaves me with dry socks
to wear to bed as well. If I’m not wearing my
drysuit, I’ll just pack a pair of synthetic socks
in addition to my gore-tex socks. If it's warmer, I'll
just go barefoot if I don't feel like wearing my wet
paddling shoes.
For sandal afficionados,
check out these easy to make 1
ounce flip-flops.
 |
| "Does
this outfit make me look fat?" My
morning attire in cool subalpine: Western Mountaineering
Linelite hybrid sleeping bag over 1 oz poncho VBL
(the orange thing) over insulative layers I wore
under my drysuit. On my feet are river shoes over
Gore-Tex socks (see above photo). Minus the shoes,
this is the same get-up I slept in inside my bivy
shelter. |
Clothes
The clothes you bring for camp wear
depends on the locale, weather, time of year and whether
or not you’re wearing a drysuit and have a sleeping
bag that’s wearable.
In the hottest of trips,
I will bring nothing more than what I wear inside my
kayak. Typically though, I’ll bring a pair of
synthetic shorts that I slip on once to camp. By the
time the temps have cooled down in the evening, my wet
river clothes are usaully dry enough to don again. Or,
if I wore my drysuit, I already have dry clothes that
were worn under. If these clothes aren’t warm
enough, I just put on my hybrid sleeping bag (Rock
Wren or Linelite). Further still, I can wear
my poncho under the sleeping bag (as
shown in photo on right) or over if it's sprinkling.
It may not seem like
much but the above has served me well in a variety of
early spring to early fall conditions (I'll
pack a microfleece top & bottom in colder conditions.
Have upgraded to lighter & warm down jacket and
pants as of 2010). It's a highly versatile and
systematic approach that allows me to keep my load light
and compact. The hybrid sleeping bag has been
key.
 |
| It may look gay
but who cares! This is a super cheap, super light,
breathable and warm rainsuit that'll keep you dry
for about 2 hrs in a steady medium rain...enough
time for general camp chores. It's simply a pair
of polypro or Tyvek disposable work coveralls found
in the paint department of your local hardware store.
If you can't find them with a hood, make your own
from sil-nylon as I did with this simple
hood pattern (do a Google translation). This
get up weighs 7 oz and cost around $10...and though
"disposable", should last several seasons
with a bit of care...as long or longer than the
Frogg Toggs Driducks. Guaranteed to generate camp
discussion. |
Rain
protection
Although rain suits are nice, they
are not overly versatile. Ponchos on the otherhand have
many uses. Besides being rainwear, a poncho can be used
as a ground cloth; shelter for hanging river clothes
under on a rainy night; extra shelter vestibule space;
a dry area for cooking in the rain (if
set high enough); changing pad; and if it’s
brightly colored, a signaling device (notice
how bright this red
poncho is). I take a poncho every time. Depending
on the conditions, it'll be a 7 oz sil-nylon Equinox
Terrapin or generic .99 cent 1 oz plastic poncho as
shown in above photo (translucent orange
under sleeping bag).
While ponchos work
great in light rain or shorter hard showers, for sustained
use in heavy rain, a rain suit is more likely to keep
you dryer. The suit is also less apt to snag on brush
given the material forms against the body as opposed
to hanging off the body like a poncho. That said, if
I were going to be hiking around in lots of rain, I'd
opt for a rain suit consisting of a hooded jacket and
matching pants...something breathable yet waterproof,
light and inexpensive. At less than $20 and weighing
10 ounces, the Frogg Toggs DriDucks fit that bill perfectly.
While not as durable as garments made with heavier materials,
they get rave reviews from many backpackers and reportedly
hold up fine for those willling to exercise a little
caution.
3.29.11
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