Choosing a trip that requires a hike to reach the put-in can add a new dimension to the overall experience. It brings extra meaning to self-reliance, adds adventure, forces creative packing, and tests your physical and mental limits.

There are several ways in which to transport boat and gear long distances under your own power. The most widely used methods are dragging with a tow system and carrying with a backpack made to accomodate a kayak. Dragging is easy…but, unless there are no rocks, you’ll put a lot of wear on the kayaks hull while leaving an unsightly trail of plastic shavings. Not cool! Carrying with a pack system isn't as easy but can be reasonable…if your knees can handle it and your pack is good.

After disappointing experiences with two commercially available packs, I built my own. I have documented this process below for those looking to stir their imaginations. For those not inclined to go that far, I have added links further down on the page to other pack systems, both homemade and commercial.

Homemade pack system
Besides a system that would easily stow in the kayak (Riot Magnum in this case) once to the put-in, my primary idea was to have a load transferring frame (to the hips) that was not only more comfortable than the commercial models but lighter as well. The foundation for this system began as an old breakdown external frame backpack made by the defunct Antelope Camping Equipment company. Built on that are componets made from scratch and other gear incorporated in to minimize carried weight and bulk.

1) backband from Riot Magnum modified to be used as the lumbar pad 2) Salamander Retriever waist worn throw bag used as the mid back pad & to tie boat to frame 3) hip belt made w/ minicell, sil-nylon, seat belt & tubular webbing 4) aluminum pack frame ready to stow; 5/8" webbing sternum & shoulder straps; foam pipe insulation for shoulder strap padding
	Here's the assembled system ready for action. The boat is lashed to the frame with the rope from the Salamander throw bag/mid back pad. Once to the put-in, I can disassemble the frame & stow it in my kayak; re-install the kayaks backband; don the Salamander & launch. PS Using the throwrope to lash boat to frame works but I'm going to add specific straps/buckles. It'll add about 2 oz but make things far easier & faster.
	The backband/lumbar support is attached to the lower horizontal frame member via two webbing loops affixed to the modified backband. The frame member slides through the loops then is fastened to the vertical frame members with one aluminum screw per side.
	Here's the back of the frame minus the throw bag/mid back support. Visible are the holes I drilled in the horizontal members to lighten the frame. I also drilled out the two vertical frame members and cut 6" off the top and removed two vertical aluminum stabilizers. The weight for the aluminum frame only is a mere 9 oz. The shoulder straps, sternum strap, and hip belt add another 6 oz for a total of 15 oz of extra carried weight.
	Here are two Riot backbands; stock on top and one I modified to fit the frame on the bottom. The chunky piece of plastic (A) interferred with the lumbar fit so I cut it off and replaced it with machined aluminum (B) that can either be swung out of the way or removed while in lumbar mode. The modifications & swiss cheesing also cut the weight by 30%.
Held together by a total of 6 aluminum screws, the frame can be fully disassembled with a river knife or saw blade in about 2 minutes. The webbing, shoulder pads and duct tape holding those pads on keep all the parts together while being stowed beside my seat. The shoulder pads also prevent the ends of the frame members from wearing into the boats plastic and drybags (see (4) in the first photo above). While not as light or simple as a "pool noodle" system, at 15 oz, this frame weighs half that of the lightest and most popular commercial pack and is in a class of its own as far as comfort. The kayak can also be carried horizontally or vertically. Other pack systems under construction I'll add additional links and comments as I get them. If you have a super system of your own, know of links to others or have personal experiences you'd like to share, let me know and I'll get them on here. Homemade packs Due to its simplicity and low cost, the "pool noodle" system has been the most popular packing method in the last ~15 years. Though the possible configuraions are numerous, the most basic system consists of a cam buckle strap or two (the kind used to strap kayaks to cars) threaded through two sections of pool noodles (shoulder padding) then through the kayak's safety bars and around the seat towers, or....in some such manner that essentially forms two loops for shoulder straps. While it doesn't get any simpler or cheaper or lighter, with the cockpit resting against your back and your shoulders bearing all the weight, you'd either better be tough or enjoy pain. Wearing your PFD for back padding would seem mandatory and using some type of waist belt smart. A few enterprising folks have reportedly used the belt from their rescue PFD for this. Click here to see one of many "pool noodle" methods. The following is a nice "how-to" for a system made from an unused backpack. In concept, it's quite similar to the commercial Salamander Bak Yak. Click here. Though it seems like an odd and uncomfortable way to carry a loaded kayak, a few people have reported good luck with the canoe inspired "portage yoke". Commercial packs Salamander was the first, I believe, to enter the market with the Bak Yak Harness. Lots of people used the original model, myself included. Like most, I did not find it "comfortable" but it's reportedly more so than the popular homemade "pool noodle" systems. These early models were also known to come apart. Their newly redesigned system looks good, though I have not tried it or know anyone who has. http://www.salamanderpaddlegear.com/ NRS has the Kayak Sherpa. Reports have been mixed. However, it is $30 less than the Salamander Bak Yak. http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=2932&deptid=1767 Hydraulics of New Zealand has what appears to be a simple system which works similarly to some "pool noodle" systems. If anyone has first hand experience with this one, please let me know. http://www.hydraulics-nz.com/collections/accessories/products/strap-on Pyranha has a new system that incorporates the kayaks backband. It supposedly retails for $80. Check out a youtube video of it here. Using a pack system Whether you make your own pack system or purchase one, make sure you get it 100% dialed in at home. 90% doesn't cut it in the field. Donning and doffing a loaded kayak attached to a backpack is at best, unwieldy. Doing this more than a couple times to fiddle with fit combined with the preasure to make time or keep up with your partners...frustrations can reach a point where the pack eventually ends up in the boat and the boat dragged or carried on your shoulder. The over all amount of energy expended in these situations may exceed that of simply shouldering your kayak from the beginning. Save your energy for the hike. You'll need it...plus some for the river. General tips Though breakdown frames like the one I used are rare, with some time and ingenuity, one could convert a standard frame which, are plentiful and cheap in second hand stores (I have seen really nice ones for under $5). Some have been known to attach their non-breakdown frames to their decks. With the right frame & boat combination, this might work fairly well without adding a significant snagging hazard. However, even in the best case scenario, there will be additional risks involved. If the terrain is conducive to low impact dragging, use the tow system from your PFD or waist worn throwbag. Alternate towing from stern to bow to distribute wear on the hull. Carrying a loaded kayak for any distance is exceedingly strenuous and sucks energy like a Hummer does gas. Your body will beg for every extra calorie and nutrient it can get. But, it takes energy to carry additional food, especially quality food that weighs more than that sawdust-like stuff so commonly found in wrappers these days. Enter Mother Nature. If you learn to identify edible plants, you'll be surprised at all the foods you can forage along the way. Think about it. Why carry extra food (weight) your body will crave only to walk by/through/on perfectly good edibles? Why suffer if you don't have to? Nourish your body by foraging at ground level when taking breaks and at waist level while hiking. The idea with this isn't to get full (you'll likely expend more energy than you gain) but rather to supplement your food supply with fresh edibles that are at your finger tips. Learn more about foraging here.