Stock, the factory seat moved side to side enough (1.5" each way) that I could feel it while paddling, especially bracing. And the gap between the top of the seat & underside of the cockpit rim created a flex point in its most vulnerable spot. The foam on the top (A) takes out most of the flex while the foam between seat & sidewall (B) nearly eliminates side to side movement. This simple & quick little fix made the boat feel noticably better while paddling. Excellent returns!
PS: Gluing hip pads in produces cleaner results than duct tape but, in an attempt to minimize my chemical body burdon as much as possible, I quit using adhesives. Hippie chrome works & is much faster.

Here are 3 very simple & easy mods. To facilitate egress, I chamfered both sides of the pillar (A). The holes in the bulkheads foam (B) adds a little shock absorbtion. (C) is a bungee cord water bottle holder. I used a plastic tube from a ball point pen to keep the bungee from pullling through the foam. Here's how I did it: poked hole in foam 3" from edge with phillips head screwdriver; pulled it out; inserted pen tube over screwdriver & pushed it in hole; pulled out screwdriver & run bungee through.

The original Riot backband adjustment system creates unnecessary friction. Its geometry also wants to naturally pull the band downward rather than forward. This set-up pulls the band in a straight line and with no friction. Getting this band tight to your back is far easier and faster than with the conventional ratchet system. To tighten, I simply pull rather than ratchet.

After numerous configurations, this is by far the best I have come up with. I left the original strap and ratchet in place for a back-up. It can be made operational in one to two minutes. The backband is a modified Riot band...the same one shown here. Tightening is done by pulling on the whiteish colored toggles seen hanging below the thigh braces. The ratchet straps run through toothed spring loaded pieces salvaged from the older Riot thigh strap system (like a ratchet without the ratchet lever). These are fastened to the existing holes used for the thigh brace adjustment and reinforced with aluminum plates.

I'll add a more detailed description and photos as time allows. Until then, feel to email me with questions.

Here's an old thermo formed seat I cut the back out of (indicated by the red arrows) and reinforced with machined aluminum. The aluminum against the existing the pillar pocket (A) was welded to a 3" wide piece of aluminum which was also part of the 1.25" wide band (B) that wrapped around the back of the seat. This band assembly was then attached to the seat with thirteen rivets as can be seen in the top 2 pics. Finally, (A) was attached to the existing pillar pocket via one 1”x1" aluminum angle (indicated by green arrow) per side and a total of ten 1/8" Ø button head screws.

Cutting the seat like this severely weakened its structural integrity. With the aluminum bracing, it recovered an estimated 85% of its original integrity. I justified the 15% loss due to this particular kayaks unusually high shell strength.

For this seat and boat, this mod worked well. It greatly improved the access, allowed some of the weight to be carried lower and closer to my butt and provided storage space under the seat.